The sun is shining in my new state of Washington and I'm eager to create something. A lot of somethings, in fact! But working on the floor in my garage is definitely getting old. So, it's time to scour the internet and brainstorm ideas for a workshop table of epic proportions.
My super hero table needed to be large, easily movable, able to seamlessly incorporate my newfound love (the miter saw!) and work as well for construction projects as for creating art.
I based the table design off the awesome plan by Shanty 2 Chic. Thanks for the inspiration, ladies! Since I wanted the ultimate in versatility, I opted to create three separate tables, all with locking casters. This makes the project a bit more expensive since each caster is about $10 (yikes!) but, for me, it's worth the cost to be able to configure these tables to suit my needs. And this is definitely a project where you could use up scrap wood, so you can save a bit of moolah on wood and spend on casters instead.
When sandwiched between the two large tables, the miter saw table has ample support for long boards. Note that this table is shorter than the other two by 3 inches to allow boards to run seamlessly across the saw and side tables.
My Kreg jig is also housed on this shorter table (currently hiding on the back side) since drilling pocket holes requires me to raise my arm and push downward. I screwed my Kreg to a plywood board and drilled a couple of holes to allow it to hang from nails on the back of the table. I just clamp it to the table when in use.
When I need a large work surface, I just use the two 48" tables. All of my tables have tons of storage options on the lower shelf and surrounding the table (on the legs, the frame). I used nails to hang my 4' level, a gate handle to hold clamps and a magnetic bar to keep my tools close at hand.
This project is actually pretty easy - beginner level, I would say (at least, it was doable for this beginner) - and all three tables could be completed in a weekend. Now that we have a solid plan in place, let's get started!
All three tables follow the same plan, though the middle table is obviously smaller. Here you'll find instructions for building one 48" table, and you can find information below about modifying this plan to build the smaller table. Happy building!
STEP 1: Cut all your pieces
You'll want to adjust the legs to match your height and how you'll use the table. I'm 5'8" and found this final height to work well for me. However, if you are shorter or do a lot of work that requires you to press down onto the table, you might want to make your legs slightly shorter. If you're taller than 6'2" or so, you might want to consider a higher table. See how you like the height of your kitchen counter and go from there.
One of the greatest benefits of using a miter saw is that you can cut multiple pieces at once. This makes quicker work and also leads to more uniform cuts! Now you see why it's my favorite tool!
STEP 2: Drill your pocket holes
This was my first time using a Kreg jig and I found it to be an easy and fast way to create pocket holes. Yes, the Kreg is expensive but using it creates a very tight, strong joint that my novice skills would likely have a hard time achieving without. If you ever plan to build furniture at some point in the future, being able to create hidden pocket holes is a must to preserve the aesthetic and integrity of the piece. The * below tells you which boards need pocket holes. Note that for most of your boards you'll place two holes at the top and bottom of the short side of your wood (see photo example, right). However, the 2x4s for the legs will need three holes on the long side (one on the left, middle and right side of the board). See the photo below for an example.
STEP 3: Build your top and bottom frames
Using 2.5" Kreg screws, attach your shorter pieces to your longer pieces, as shown in the below diagrams. Note that the shorter pieces go on the inside while the longer pieces are on the outside.
It's imperative that you work on a level surface or use blocks to make it level.
STEP 4: Build your legs
Take your 2x4 and line it up on top of the 2x6 with the holes facing the 2x6. Drill using Kreg 2.5" screws. You could use wood glue in addition to screws if you'd like, though I found the screws to be sufficient.
STEP 5: Attach legs and casters to bottom frame
Using 2.5" screws (any kind of wood screw is fine), attach the legs to each corner. Make sure you are working on a level surface and that the bottom of your leg is flush with the bottom of your frame. Then flip the frame over and attach the 2x6 platform topped with caster. I used casters with a plate rather than the threaded variety. Use 3" wood screws with a large head to secure. It's OK if you can screw in only 3 of the 4 slots. You'll want to note the location of the screws on your frame so you don't try to drill where a screw already exists.
STEP 6: Attach plywood board to bottom frame
If cut correctly, your plywood should fit "snug as a bug in a rug" within the legs and on top of your bottom frame. In fact, I didn't bother to nail my plywood to the frame as it fits securely with no wiggle room. If you do wish to secure the plywood to the frame, use a nail gun in the corners and a couple of places on each side. This will keep your surface smooth but still allow you to replace the plywood in the future if needed.
STEP 7: Attach your upper frame
Your upper frame will fit on the outside of your legs. Use clamps on each corner, adjusting until the frame is flush with the top of the legs. Then attach using 2.5" wood screws. Again, note the location of already installed screws so you can avoid them.
STEP 8: Add your top
Since I plan to use two (or more) tables together, I want one side of my table to be flush so it can easily abut the other table. However, I prefer that the other three sides have a bit of a lip to make it easier to clamp things to the table. When you place the plywood on top, make sure it's flush on one side and that the perpendicular sides have an equal amount of overhang. Then secure using a nail gun.
STEP 9: Accessorize
Having all your tools within reach and easy to find is key to a fun, productive project!
STEP 10: Repeat
If you'd like to build the collection of tables as I have shown, you'll want to build two of the 48" tables. For the smaller table that I use for my miter saw and Kreg jig, you'll want to use the below listed dimensions. Keep in mind that these measurements are based off of my miter saw. You may need to adjust the length of your legs if the base of your miter saw up to the platform (where wood slides across) is greater or less than 3".
Top: frame 22 x 48, plywood 25 x 48
Bottom: frame 16 x 42, plywood 19 x 42
Legs: 26.75 tall (I used all 2x4s instead of a mix of 2x4 and 2x6 to allow for more room between legs), 5" support between legs and casters
Casters: 4" (same)
